While top cuts of meat served with unerring consistency are the main attraction, the recipe for its popularity also includes first-rate service and a dash of ceremony that diners expect when dropping a couple bills on a single dinner.

The 180-seat restaurant is spread over two floors and comprises a main dining room, piano bar, private rooms, show cellars and walk-in aging room. In contrast to old-guard chophouses like the dark, brooding but kitsched-out Barberian’s, this restaurant – bearing the same pedigree as the Buca empire of restaurants – is airy and modern, turning convention on its head by employing a light, muted, colour scheme accented by dark woods.

The result is, as anticipated, excellent, plenty garlicky and a little zippy from anchovies. It’s not creamy, but the classic addition of an egg yolk adds richness, though they’ll replace that with an avocado for a similar effect if requested.