Enter through the pantry, which serves as a hostess station and doubles as a pizza takeaway counter and retail outlet for the Colacitti family’s olive oils. Further inside, you’ll find a cozy and eclectic room that echoes the comforts of home.

Leather wingback chairs and tufted booths furnish the lounge, while the kitchen at the back of the room overlooks an 18-seat harvest table. Faux heirlooms like ornamental dishes and a collection of chiming clocks adorn the walls.

The menu features dishes like the steak tartare ($19), which pay tribute to Colacitti’s mentors and the melting pot of cuisines found in Toronto. Done in the style of Didier, hand chopped beef tenderloin is tossed with cornichons, shallots, capers and herbs before being finished with a soft-boiled quail egg and lightly grilled sourdough.

The space, formerly occupied by Asian-fusion restaurant, Yulla looks totally new inside. The dining room is relatively unadorned letting dark woods contrast with prominent white subway tiles and off-white walls that display oversized prints from the Toronto Archives. Upstairs, in the smaller dining room, we claim front row seats at the kitchen-facing chef’s rail and have the opportunity to watch the kitchen staff at work and to chat with Heinrich – who is clearly comfortable in front of an audience.

Like Lee’s other establishments, Brenda Bent (Lee’s wife and mother to the Bent-Lees) and her design partner Karen Gable are behind the decor of Fring’s, which has a hip lounge-like feel mixed with elements of whimsy (Yeti-like fur on the backs of dining chairs, installations over the bar made from clear plastic hangers) and gothic chic (ornate crosses on the walls).

It’s unclear as to how involved the 6 God actually is in this operation (I’m told he didn’t have input in terms of the drinks or the menu – he’s a fan of the prawns though), but there are subtle hints of him when I head down to the washrooms, which are labelled “6 Gods” and “6 Goddesses,” and spot the lit-up ” emojis just begging to be Instagrammed.